Welcome to Ben and Julie's Missionary Page
November 2004

Visit to a Slave Castle

Ghana is home to many old forts along the coast, which are called castles. While gold brought the first European traders here, it was supplanted by slaves, which were easier and more profitable to acquire and sell. This is a sad chapter in the history of West Africa, and it is often told to remind people of their past. Several of the castles, built by former European conquerors, have been restored along the coast and are now museums to teach about African history. During our first weekend in Cape Coast we visited the Cape Coast Castle. We saw the dungeons where captured people were held before being shipped to various ports around the world. West Africans see that Americans of African heritage have a much better life than is had in West Africa. One black member of the Church spoke at a fireside for the senior temple and area missionaries. He wished that more African Americans would return to their roots in West Africa and bring with them the knowledge they have about commerce and free enterprise. He felt this could make a tremendous difference in the lives of West Africans in general. He also commented that on a trip he made to Utah, he listened to an African American member of the Church decry the slave trade that brought her ancestors to America and the subsequent discrimination she felt. He told us he admonished her to be grateful for the sacrifices her ancestors made so she could have what she had. He told her to move forward, not backwards.

Beautiful Cape Coast Castle	But there are horrible memories here

Captured people were forced into dungeons under the castle.	Hundreds of people were held in these cells; many died. The survivers were sold as slaves.

Sister Markham with a shop owner. Note the ornamental scars on his face. Until recently, this was common practice.	Here's a contrast---some cannons are old and rusted, but one is young and beautiful!

Those Blackfoot women all look alike

There are many missionaries here in Ghana. Some are proselyting, some are temple, and six couples are Area Missionaries. Included in this group is the Area Medical Director and his wife, the Area Family History Directors, the Area Public Affairs Directors, the Area Welfare Directors, the Area Presidency Executive Secretary and his wife, and us. Among the Area missionaries, this is the second mission for each couple except us and the Family History Directors. (We’ve mentioned before that many of the temple missionaries are on their fourth or fifth missions.) Of the twelve Area missionaries, three are from Bingham County, Idaho. Elder Armstrong was raised in a suburb of Firth. (Those familiar with that area may now laugh.) Sister Whisenant, nee Hamilton, is from Riverton on the outskirts of Blackfoot, while Sister Markham was raised in the city of Blackfoot – population: 8,000.

One day, before we knew each other very well, the Whisenants and the Markhams were eating lunch together in the cafeteria. Frankly, Sister Markham was struggling with the beans, called red red (red beans cooked in red palm oil). Sister Whisenant said, “I’m a country girl. I’m tough. I can handle these just fine.” Sister Markham proudly exclaimed that she was a city girl, and that’s why she was having trouble with the beans. When they learned they were both from Blackfoot, they had quite a laugh.

Lunch of rice, red red, chicken and fried plantains

Perhaps you are familiar with the politically incorrect phrase, “They all look alike to me.” Sister Markham set a goal when she arrived to learn the name of each employee in the office building, but she had not previously appreciated how much we rely on hair or eye color to identify a new friend. Well, everyone here has the same color of hair, same color of eyes, and same color of skin. She has found herself staring intently trying to find something distinctive to remember about each new person and then associating their name with that. However, the Ghanaians have no comprehension of the term, “politically incorrect.” They often state, and not in jest, that we all look alike to them. We’ve been here long enough to actually see that old white men (senior missionaries) all have pale, blotchy skin and stark white hair. They do look alike! One day recently, an employee, Lydia, the head of Human Resources, raced through the double doors near our office and said, “Quick! We need a picture!” Sister Markham grabbed her camera and went to the other side of the building to take a picture of a worker at the bank next door precariously climbing a ladder balanced on a cement fence. After the photo, she asked Lydia if she just assumed that all obruni missionaries had a camera with them. Lydia said unabashedly, “Actually, I had confused you with the Public Affairs missionary. She always has a camera.” Sister Whisenant has short, curly hair and might weigh 100 pounds if soaking wet. Her younger brother, born when she was 17, graduated from high school with Sister Markham. We were both flattered with the momentary mix-up. Sister Markham has also been mistaken for Sisters Gay, Armstrong and Merrill by Ghanaians.

Mouseover to see Sisters from Blackfoot

Is it Sister Markham or Sister Whisenant??

One weekend we had auditor training in Takoradi and the Whisenants were doing Public Affairs training in Cape Coast, so we traveled together. We made excellent time going and arrived early enough to enjoy lunch on the beach at the hotel we were staying in that night. Sitting on the coast, watching the Atlantic surf roll onto the beach was idyllic. Elder Markham found it appropriate to mention he’d learned that one advantage to marrying a girl from Blackfoot was that no matter where he took her, she would consider it an upgrade. That day, there was no argument.

We are not in Blackfoot anymore, Toto

Sister Markham and Sister Whisenant

The Coconut Grove Hotel is located on the beach, about 10 miles west (toward Takoradi) of Cape Coast.	The ocean views, gardens and beach are all very nice---to look at.

It was almost nice enough to make us forget we were in West Africa. But there were reminders.	The rooms were very western, but there was a bucket in the marble shower. The preferred mode of bathing for West Africans is a sponge bath from a bucket.

Breakfast was outstanding: Spanish omlettes cooked over charcoal, served by the ocean.

Over breakfast, we enjoyed marlevous views of the beach and ocean.	When is the last time Sister Markham didn't have a book out during a meal!

Things in Ghana that make us smile

The children entertain obruni missionaries. This is Bishop Quaisie's daughter, Antoinette. She is great at 'high five.'	Phillip Xaxagbe has a great last name. He is manager of the materials department that delivers mail to us---Sister Markham has become good friends with him!

Missionaries from all over Africa serve in Ghana. They are very interesting to talk with. This is Elder Wama from Nigeria.	These are the future of the Church and their countries. This is Elder Wessah from Liberia.

This little girl was attending the temple with her family. She was afraid of the blonde photographer!	When we saw this pink VW in our lot we thought Tony Corbell was here from California. Not so, just someone visiting our neighbors.

It is time for the shop/sign of the month contest.
Click below to see this month's results.

Shops and Signs

A Mission President Who Can't Get to His Mission Home

President Norby of the Ivory Coast Abidjan Mission

In early November, severe hostilities broke out between government loyalists in Ivory Coast and French peacekeepers stationed there. Over the ensuing weekend, it became unsafe for Caucasions to be on the streets in Abidjan, the largest city. The Ivory Coast Abidjan Mission includes the other French speaking West African countries of Togo, Benin, Cameroon, and Central African Republic. President and Sister Norby were in Togo just completing visits to all the missionaries outside Ivory Coast. They tried to get back to Abidjan, but there were no flights because the Abidjan airport had been closed. A Church employee drove to Togo and brought them back to Accra. From Accra, President Norby stayed in constant contact with his "sons" via cell phone and internet. He also was in regular contact with the Missionary Department in Salt Lake who contacted families and provided guidance. He had made preparations before any indication of trouble. There was one African in each companionship. Every apartment had a cell phone. Each missionary had a 72 hour kit. The missionaries stayed in their apartments and church members checked on them.

President and Sister Norby wanted to be driven to the border and have a Church employee from Abidjan meet them there and drive them back to the mission home. They were asked not to do that since the missionaries were all OK. By the end of the week, international relief organizations were evacuating foreigners from Ivory Coast. Forty-two missionaries from North America and Europe were air lifted to Accra. They came with only backpacks. Two days later a rented bus driven by two Church employees arrived in Accra with all the suitcases belonging to these missionaries. They are being assigned to temporary areas in Ghana and the other countries in the Ghana Accra and Ivory Coast Abidjan Missions.

As auditors this was not our direct concern, but Sister Markham loaned her office to President Norby for a few days (he now has an office). We were able to hear much of what went on. There was no panic. There was the calm confidence of faith. The missionaries are all safe. It is a blessing to see the Lord's servants lead through inspiration. Would we send a child or grandchild to serve in President Norby's mission---in a minute!

Patriarch Joseph William Billy Johnson
a living pioneer

Patriarch Johnson, flanked by Elders Whisenant and Armstrong on the left,
and Elders Markham and Walker on the right.

In 1962, a woman in England answered an appeal for support of religious activities in Ghana by sending books and pamphlets she had received during discussions with missionaries of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints to Dr. Raphael Abraham Frank Mensah in Ghana. Dr. Mensah was an active religious leader and preacher, having affiliation with several congregations. He read the material and wrote to Salt Lake City requesting more materials and support. He began to preach the LDS doctrines in his sermons. Although he did not receive the support he sought from Church headquarters, he began efforts to etablish an LDS congregation in Ghana. In 1963, Dr. Mensah dreamed that a man named Johnson would help to establish the church. The next year, the good works of a dynamic, young religious leader named Joseph William Billy Johnson came to the attention of Dr. Mensah. Johnson was invited to meet with Mensah. After a brief discussion the two knelt in prayer to ask the Lord to sustain the LDS mission in Ghana. During this prayer, Johnson saw a vision of a book. He inquired about the book, and Mensah reached under the bed and retrieved a copy of the Book of Mormon and handed it to Johnson. Johnson immediately recognized it as the book he had seen in vision due to the blue cover and trumpeting angel. Johnson joined the work and continues today.

As Johnson started reading and using the Book of Mormon, persecution also flared up. But, he and Mensah pursued and succeeded in establishing an LDS Church in Ghana (not recognized by Church Headquarters as official) with several congregations. They continued to request visits from church leaders and materials to support their efforts. During the late 60's and early 70's two interesting trends unfolded. First, foreign leaders of other faiths often approached Johnson with offers of money, support and position if he would affliate his congregations with their church. In each case Johnson prayed and felt impressed to decline the offer. Second, visitors who were strong members of the LDS Church in Africa on business or as visiting educators made unofficial visits to the congregations and developed relationships with Johnson and Mensah. They were impreesed by the sincerity and provided what support they could.

On July 9, 1978, while listening to a BBC broadcast during a night when he couldn't sleep, Johnson learned of the announcement by the Church of the revelation given to President Spencer W. Kimball that all worthy men should be given the Priesthood. Johnson immediately wrote to President Kimball reporting that he and many others were ready and waiting for missionaries to come. The missionaries did come and Johnson with many of his unofficial congregations were baptized and became the foundation of the Church in Ghana.

His story can be found in several books, two of which are Safe Journey by Glenn L. Pace and Walking in the Sand by Emmanuel Abu Kissi. He has experienced inspiration, dreams and visions while working tirelessly to build the kingdom of God in Ghana. On the day we met him, he was in Accra to be interviewd by a British television crew doing a special on religions. They had heard of Joseph William Billy Johnson and he received Church permission to give the interview. He is 69 years old, was suffering from malaria fever (common in West Africa), had traveled several hours to be in Accra, and was just leaving a 2 hour interview under television lights. But as he met us, a group of Area Missionaries leaving for a lunch together, he acted like we were long, lost friends and he had all the time in the world for us. Sister Markham ask him to bear a quick testimony for her camera. He did so without hesitation. Elder Markham, who had the privilege of meeting President Kimball many years ago, feels that Patriarch Johnson and President Kimball were linked as great and noble spirits before coming to this earth. They both overcame tremendous obstacles to fulfill their missions here. In his presense, we felt as if we were standing with our pioneer ancesters whose faith still sets the standard which we desire to obtain.

Click the play button below
to hear Patriarch Johnson's testimony.
(about 500kb, it may take a few minutes to load)